Instructions for a Simple Outdoor Flight (With and Without a Man-Trap Door) "This was one of the first flights I built. The following plans are for a flight very similar to this one. There are a few differences correcting some mistakes and making the flight safer to you and the birds." "The biggest difference is in the door or doors. The flight above had a large door on the end I could stand and walk through and a small door to feed through. This allowed for birds to fly past me when entering which could result in their loss. I always recommend the addition and use of a Man-Trap on all outdoor flights. This way birds cannot be lost! In attempting escape, birds tend fly upward. If a Man-Trap is not possible, then it is very important to keep the doors small and as low as possible." This project is the making of a single open flight suitable for the outdoors. The unit measures about 4'wide x 6'deep x 8'tall and is suitible for a single breeding pair each of two to three different species of doves and/or quail or up to ten birds of the same species. "In mine, I tend to keep one pair of Button Quail (and allow then to incubate their own), one pair of Diamond doves and one pair of Zebra doves. They all do well and raise youg well through the breeding season." "During the winter, I cover three sides in heavy plastic (See Photos 1, 2) and keep four pair of Ringnecks, one pair of Bar-shouldered doves and one pair of Mexican Speckled Quail." This is an open flight with an enclosed top roof section. It can be modified by enclosing one or more of the walls, entirely or partially. The closed roof section allows for protection of roosting birds. Be sure to install wide, flat perches and any nest bowls or platforms up in this section. Side view showing man-trap on the front, main supports and wire flooring below ground level. Front view of flight showing main supports and wire flooring below ground level. The drawing on left shows without a man-trap, but with a small low door to reduce escapes. The drawing on the right shows the same flight with the Man-Trap on the front. See Larger Drawings of: Non-Man-Trap Option ..... Man-Trap Option Building Instructions The instructions for this flight are a little less detailed due to the variations possible. (A complete materials list is at the end of this page , along with a tools list.) It will help a great deal to have more than one person working on this project. First select the site for the flight. Locate and face the door away from where the worst weather comes from in your area. Situate to allow for direct sunlight into the flight (This is important for doves). Level the site best as possible. If difficult, always start at the high corner and work around from there. Locate and dig the four holes for the 4"x4" corner posts, dig at least 2' down. Also locate and dig two holes for the 2"x4" posts on the Man-Trap if you are building this as well. Set the four 4"x4"s in the holes, be sure at least 6' is above ground level. Tie the bottoms together using the 1"x10"s, being sure the end boards extend past the 4"x4"s about 3/4" on each end. The side boards will butt up against these overlaps. Remember to start at the high corner and use a level. Check for square by taking diagonal measurements. From the high corner, measure up from ground level 6'. Working from this point and with the level, tie in the tops of the 4"x4"s with the 2"x4"s positioned on edge. Trim off any excess from the 4"x4"s above the height of the 2"x4"s. Check for square again and adjust. Fill in the holes around the four posts. For added security, a quick concrete mix can be added to each hole before filling. For rodent and preditor protection, prepare for the wire flooring. This can be done in two ways. 1) Dig about 2' down all around the inside of the flight and install a continuous section of wire vertically all around the parimeter, stapling the wire to the inside of the flight base. 2) Dig down about 6" or so from the entire flight bottom. Save the dirt off to the side. Cut wire sections to fill the entire flight bottom comming up and overlapping the insides of the 1"x10"s. Attach the sections of wire with J-clips or thread them together with galvanized or stainless wire and staple the entire unit inside the flight. Backfill the flight with the dirt removed or any other surface material you wish to use. "I prefer the second method on this size flight. If putting a number of these flights side by side, I would use the first method." Tie the center of the two upper 2"x4"s together with a 2"x4" cross member on edge. The Roof Calculate and cut the angles for your ten rafter pieces from 2"x4"s. (If you are using heavy plywood for the roof, 3/4" or more, three rafters may be sufficient.) With help, put up the 2"x6" ridge beam and the rafters at both ends of the flight. Attach the center rafters as well. Fill in with the others if using them. Cut and install roofing plywood or other roofing material you have selected. If plywood, cover with tar paper, install drip edges and apply shingles. Be sure no screws or nails come through the plywood or roofing material and can harm the birds. Measure, cut and install the two triangular end caps to finish enclosing the roof section. Cut the wire sections for the two sides and the back of the flight. Combine sections with J-clips or by threading with stainless wire. Install the wire sections to the flight. This can be done from the inside or outside of the flight depending on how you wish the finished project to look. Just be sure there are no sharp wires for the birds to injure themselves. "I chose to install the wire from the inside and then cover the edges with thin strips of finishing wood." The next step depends on the type of door to be used and if there will be a Man-Trap or not. Without a Man-Trap (I do not recommend this method!) If a Man-Trap is not to be used, it is important to keep the door as small and low as possible. I would install horizontal and verticle 2"x4"s to make an opening for a door about 2'wide x 4'tall. Build the door and install so it swings outward. I would also consider an even smaller door to feed and water through to even further reduce chances of birds escaping. With a Man-Trap (It is Always best to use a Man-Trap) If building a 3'x3'x6' Man-Trap, cut and attach two verticle 2"x4"s to the open end of the flight, 3'apart. Place a long 2"x4" into each of the holes dug 3' apart and 3' from the flight. Be sure they extend at least 6' above ground level. Tie the four verticles together above and below with 2"x4"s checking for level and square. The finished frame should be a 3'x3' square 6'tall. Trim any excess 2"x4" from the two outer verticles. Backfill the holes firmly with dirt. Select the end or side of the Man-Trap for your door, build the Man-Trap door and hang so it swings outward. Be sure to use cross or angle members for a stronger door frame. Also be sure there is a latch or hook to lock the Man-Trap from the inside once you are in it. "You do not want someone opening it from the outside while it is doing its job and holding a valuable bird." Cover the Man-Trap (walls & top) and door with wire. Even with the Man-Trap, I still recommend that the door to the flight be low as possible and small. Determine the doors size and install a horizontal and verticle 2"x4"s to make the desired opening. Make the flight door. If there is enough room to open it into the Man-Trap with you inside the Trap, hang it to swing so. If not, it must swing into the flight. "Remember you will probably have feed buckest, water or a shipping box of birds with you when in the Trap. Design its size to accomodate this." Cover the door end of the flight and door with wire using the same methods as the rest of the flight. To make your flight last the longest, paint or preserve any wood surfaces. This is often easier before the wire is installed, so plan accordingly! Be sure any products used are non-toxic for birds and allow pleanty of time to dry. Tools List At least an 8' flat surface, Saw Horses, Circular Saw, Extension Cord, Electric Drill with Bits and Screw Bits, Hammer, Screw Drivers, Tape Measure, Pencils, Wire Nippers, J-clips Pliers, Straight Edge or T-Square and Level. Materials List This list will vary depending on variations you have selected. Plywood: Two sheets for roofing, One sheet for triangular end caps of roof section.
4"x4"s: (Pressure Treated) Four at 8' long.
2"x6": One at 8' long.
2"x4"s: Five at 6' long. (add Two if extra Roof Rafters are to be installed), Seven at 4' long.
[If the Man-Trap is to be built: Add Two (Pressure Treated) at 8' long and Seven (To Include Two Pressure Treated) at 6' long.]
1"x10"s: (Pressure Treated) Four at 6' long.
Wire: Welded Wire at 1/2"x1/2" or 1"x1/2", enough to cover the following:
One section at 6'x8' (wire bottom), or a 2-1/2'x20' (wire ground barrier).
Two walls at 6'x6' and Two walls at 6'x4'
[If the Man-Trap is to be built: Add for Three walls at 6'x3' and One top at 4'x4'.]
Roofing Materials: To cover a section about 6'x8'.
Other Materials:
Nails, Screws and Heavy Staples, Wood Glue, J-clips or Stainless Wire, Hindges for Two or Three doors, Locks or Latches for Three doors plus an extra Latch for inside the Man-Trap.
Flat Perches from 1"x1"s, Nests and/or Nesting Platforms.
Quick Concrete Mix, Alternative Flight Substrate.
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