Part Two

 

"During your preparation for your Diamond Doves, one of the more important and complex decisions to make is on providing them a home and habitat."

 

With such a wide range of cages and flights possible, I can in no way touch on them all here. The styles, sizes, shapes, materials and locations are as different as the individual dove keepers themselves. In keeping the basic needs of the Diamond Doves in mind, the differences in housing tend to be matters of taste and materials readily available to the keeper. With illustration and detailed description, I will discuss a basic example of a small breeding cage and a larger outdoor shelter.

 

Cages for Diamond Doves

 

Cages come commercially in a wide variety of styles, materials and prices. I have also seen a large variety of hand-made cages, from altered wooden barrels to converted antique armoires. Many people start out with a "Cockatiel" style metal cage. These work just fine; however, most are square and tall. It is much better for your doves if the cage could be longer or wider, even if it means giving up height. Many of my breeding cages are rigid welded wire, measuring some 30 to 36 inches wide x 18 to 24 inches deep x 18 to 24 inches tall. Most wire cages come with wire floors above the tray. It is my experience that Diamond Doves get along better without the wire floors. I either remove them or build my cages without them. A sturdy metal tray helps in the cleaning of the cage, and cage skirts will help reduce dropping of feathers and throwing of seeds.

 

 

 

The first illustration is of a simple, wire constructed breeding cage. I use many cages like this as indoor, individual, breeders for my Diamond Doves, keeping one pair per cage. The overall dimensions are 30 inches wide, 18 inches tall and 18 inches deep. I find it easier to reach all areas of an 18 inch deep cage than of one deeper. The exterior is a welded wire with openings measuring 1 inch by a 1/2 inch. This wire is heavy gauge and rigid, strong enough to allow four cages to be stacked on each other and remain sturdy and stable. The panels of the cage are held together with rounded metal "J-clips". The open wirework of the cage allows for plenty of light to enter. Natural and supplemental light can be directed from above and all sides. If partitions are needed, I simply attach cardboard to the sides or back. The bottom holds a metal pan, about 2 1/2 inches tall in the front, 2 inches on sides and back. This pan is heavy gauge metal and sturdy with the seams and corners welded. Be sure there are no sharp edges that can injure the birds and that the front lip of the pan is tall enough to cover any gap in the opening the pan slides into. A plastic protector strip covers the exposed wire of the upper edge of the pan opening. The front opening measures 10 inches tall by 8 inches wide with all of the exposed wire edges covered by a plastic protector strip. The door is made from the same welded wire, cut slightly larger than the opening so it overlaps. "J-clips" are used as hinges along one side and a wire spring latch holds it closed on the other side. Running from front to back, I add two wood dowel perches, about 5/8 inch in diameter, 18 inches long, in each cage. Each perch has washers and a wing nut at each end to help secure it to the wire. I place them about 5 inches from the sides to allow ample room for tail feathers. One is placed about 8 inches up from the bottom of the cage. The other is higher, about 12 inches up from the bottom. The lower perch allows enough room above for the male Diamond Dove to stand on the hens back during mating. I place an open, woven, wicker, canary nest or a metal strainer (about 4-inch opening) in the upper back corner between the higher perch and the cage side. It is good to conceal the nest somewhat with evergreen branches, strips of cloth, imitation ivy, etc. This allows the birds to feel hidden on the nest and will reduce nest and egg abandonment. This placement of the perches will encourage flight from perch to perch and allows for an open area in the center of the cage about twenty inches wide. This open area is where I place the bowls for clean water, food, and mineral salt supplements. I find this cage setup to be very sturdy, functional, easy to maintain and usually very economical. I purchased and outfitted mine for about $40 each.

 

Outdoor shelter for Diamond Doves

 

Aviaries or flights are usually little more than a frame with some form of netting or wire covering it. If indoor, the information for cages applies. Keep the job of cleaning in mind as the size increases. I find it more important to provide lights on timers indoors as people coming and going, turning lights on and off, can disrupt the dove's routine and effect its health and breeding. Good ventilation is important, but again, avoid drafts. If the flight is outdoors, you should consider that the overall structure should be sturdy enough to keep predators out. Wire netting buried at least 18 inches around the base will discourage diggers, and clear solid roofing will deter hawks. Some form of structure must be provided for the birds to escape the weather. This should be taller than the flight itself as the doves usually seek the higher areas to roost for the evening. Again try to keep perches at opposite ends of the flight to encourage flying. If at all possible add a safety porch or mantrap to your outdoor aviary. This is an area you must enter and close off before entering the aviary. If a bird escapes it only goes into the porch and is not lost to the outdoors. If this is not possible, build the doors as low as possible, even if you must crouch to enter. Doves tend to fly upward to escape. Low doors will reduce the loss of birds. The door can be located at the shelter if needed, however the safety trap is most important, as the birds cannot be seen before opening the door. If the flight is planted, be sure the plants are safe for the birds and keep them trimmed to allow movement and flight. Place nests in the upper third of the shelter or if placed in the flight, be sure the nests are protected from the elements. Food and water area should be protected from being fouled by birds or weather.

 

 

The second illustration is of a simple outdoor shelter with wire flight. I am in the process of building a variation of this with four units side by side. The overall dimensions are 4 feet wide by 8 feet deep by 7 feet tall at the peak. The shelter and flight split the distance equally to about 4 feet deep each. Using the pole type construction, I start with digging 2 foot holes for the six main poles and trenching 18 inches around the parameter for the wire barrier. If digging is difficult, flooring the entire pen in wire and filling a few inches above it with soil can eliminate the trench. This eliminates the ability to plant the flight area unless you use large pots. Pressure treated 4x4s are used for the corners of the shelter. Pressure treated 2x4s for the flight corners. Any wood touching the ground should be pressure treated. I frame the shelter area with 2x4s so that the back wall is about 5 feet 6 inches tall and the front being about 7 to 7 feet 6 inches tall. Frame the front opening at 6 feet tall to match the wire flight. I use 3/4-inch plywood for the roofing, covering it with felt paper and shingles. Drip edge and gutters are added if needed. Half-inch plywood is used on the sides and back. I prefer to cover the upper area in the front with a smoked Plexiglas or other material that will allow some light into the upper area of the shelter. I paint the interior of the shelter with a white paint for protection and to lighten it up. The exterior is stained or painted for protection. Pretreat or prepaint the boards to be used for the flight area. Using 2x4s, I frame the upper part of the flight to an overall height of 6 feet. I prefer to frame the lower portion with pressure treated 1x6s, allowing me to sink them a few inches in the ground all around. Now is a good time to attach the wire skirt barrier or wire flooring. I use 2x3s for the door framing. Keep the door as small and low as possible. This shows it at 2 feet wide by 4 feet tall with 2x2s used for the door framing. I prefer using secure door locks. Wire the flight area using a strong welded wire cloth. Half inch square works well for Diamond Doves. This type of outdoor shelter would provide a great environment for your Diamond Doves to flourish. They can enjoy the weather and free flight as well as shelter and a safe place to raise their young. The last flight I constructed similar to this cost about $300 in total. I'm sure this will vary greatly depending on area and materials selected.